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Dashboard in place - click for larger size

18. Dashboard

Dashboard

The supplied walnut fascia is beautifully finished and it is very important always to work with it on a padded surface (I used some left over foam flooring underlay which is firm but cushioned).

The dash is retained behind the body flange with a dash former. The former is shaped to follow the body line and provides the base for a cushioned, upholstered edge. This edge is continued around the body side cut-outs with side formers.

Extra holes

All the main openings are already cut or drilled but I needed two additional holes - one for the overdrive switch and one for the hazard warning switch. To drill these, confidence with great care is needed! The main steps are:

  1. Mask the area with masking tape (this prevents the drill from slipping and is easier to mark with a pen/pencil).
  2. Drill a pilot hole.
  3. Drill the main hole with a hole saw or flat wood bit (NOT a twist drill as it will chew up the surface).
  4. IF the hole needs slight opening out, it can be done VERY CAREFULLY with a mini drill type tool fitted with a small sanding cylinder.
Drilling dashboard - click for larger size The overdrive switch hole already had a recess in the back of the dash but I had to cut a little more thickness away so the switch protruded enough to screw on the ring.

The hazard warning switch hole was rather more awkward. I had to first counter-bore a hole in the back of the dash using a hole saw (with masking tape around to act as a depth guide). This was large enough to take the fixing nut/ring. Then I drilled the main hole from the front using the same centre drill but a smaller hole saw. The wood left in the back between the small hole and the large circle was pared away carefully with a chisel to the correct depth.

Glove Box

Glove box mountings - click for larger size After cutting off the flange from the supplied plastic box, it was offered up to the dash as outlined in the build manual. I decided to use the existing bottom lip and added plywood blocks to both sides to give 3 fixing edges. I then added an aluminium angle piece with a plywood block mounted for the lock (a standard MGB item). This block acts as both a stop and a catch.

The plastic box fixes by being screwed from inside onto all four edges, making it easy to remove if necessary. The extra wood was stained with a walnut stain although it is mostly unseen.

Switch Plates

Switch and heater control plates - click for larger size Two pieces of aluminium are needed for the switch plate and the heater control plate. Holes were drilled carefully so that the switches and controls appeared correctly spaced.

The plates were polished by first rubbing with fine wet & dry paper (1000 grit wet). I followed this with metal polish but found it too coarse so I used some cutting compound to bring out the final lustre. The plates were then screwed onto the back of the dashboard (in the case of the switch plate, very short screws must be used.

Heater Vents

Although not strictly part of the dash, the heater vents are fitted in this area so I have included them here. There are two sizes of vent fitted to MGBs and both are possible to fit. I chose the longer (290mm) ones which I hope will give better demisting ability.


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