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Overview Reference Workspace MGB Donor Parts Chassis Front Suspension Rear Suspension Steering Braking System Engine Transmission Fuel System Cooling System Bodywork Wings Bonnet Wheels & Hubs Electrical System Dashboard Lighting Painting Interior & Seats SVA & Registration Hood & Screens |
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13. BodyworkBody ShellThe NG TF body kit contains a number of GRP (glass reinforced plastic) body parts and a variety of associated brackets, bolts and other hardware. Most of the kit was collected with a hired trailer.The GRP parts are: Main body shell, front & rear wings, front radiator
cowling, rear valance & headlamp bowls.
Other parts include: Chassis torque braces, aluminium bonnet panels, front
grille, steering column extension and a host of brackets and fixings.
Bulkhead Holes)
The first job on the body was to measure, mark and cut a number of holes in the
bulkhead and footwell which are detailed in the NG manual. A selection of
rulers and squares is useful and a permanent OHP (overhead projector) pen is
good for marking lines, etc. on the body. These marks can be removed with
methylated spirit if a mistake is made but do not rub out accidentally.A selection of drills and hole saws, a jigsaw and a keyhole saw make it quite straightforward to make the necessary holes and cuts. WARNING: Although GRP is easy to drill and cut, the dust produced is an irritant so it is advisable to wear latex gloves and goggles. When sanding GRP, it is essential to wear a mask too. Positioning & Fitting the BodyBefore fitting the body, rubber strips are glued onto the chassis to act as a cushion and thus absorb some of the road shocks (see also the chassis diagrams). I also found that more clearance was needed around one part of the gearbox bell housing.)
The body tub was then carefully positioned on the chassis so as to produce, as
near as possible, the same overhang each side. I took 5 measurements along each
side to determine the best AVERAGE central position but some measurements
differed by a few mm either way. It is perhaps worth realising here that a
difference of, say, 2mm means only 1mm off centre - which is hardly worth
worrying about! Fore and aft position was largely determined by the raised
chassis section above the rear axle which allowed only minimal movement.Once positioned, most of the body fixing holes could be drilled from underneath through the chassis (having supported it on axle stands for greater clearance). I started with the inner holes, bolting each up lightly and re-checking the body position. The only holes I could not drill in this way were two above the rear axle (which also secure the suspension bump stops) as they have limited access. These were marked through with the OHP pen for drilling later. I also marked the body in many other places where drilling or cutting would be easier with the body removed. Other Body Details)
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