As the braking system is so important, I am using all new or reconditioned
parts.
Rear Brakes
The backplates were
reconditioned and attached to the hubs. An additional hole was drilled to
accept the new down-rated wheel cylinders supplied by NG (these are essential
to prevent the back brakes locking up before the front). New levers, cylinders,
adjusters, shoes, springs and reconditioned brake drums were fitted.
A new copper brake pipe kit was obtained and the two rear sections from the
wheel cylinders were routed (by careful bending) to a 3-way union mounted on
the front off-side of the rear axle. Sections of rubber tube were used as
protective sleeves where the pipes are attached to the axle or where there is
any danger of contact.
A new handbrake cable
was attached at the rear end and the handbrake compensator assembly (having
been repainted) was fitted to the differential housing. These are standard MGB
items.
Front Brakes
Reconditioned callipers were purchased and all other front brake parts were
bought new - discs, stainless steel dust covers, a set of pads & stainless
hoses (supplied with the Spax damper kit). These are all standard MGB items.
The discs & covers were fitted at the same time as the new wire wheels.
This is because the discs bolt to the
hubs which are different for wire wheel models. The callipers were
fitted in the usual way with new locking tabs and I smeared a little copper
grease on the back of each pad to help abolish brake squeal. The flexible hoses
were connected and a p-clip was added to secure each hose to the rear of the
cross member. The front
brake pipes were routed along the insides of the front chassis rails.
Pedal Box and Pedals
The existing MGB pedal
box was re-painted and new master cylinders obtained. The clutch
cylinder is standard MGB but the brake cylinder is supplied by NG as it must
have dual circuit brakes. Notice the remote plastic reservoir and the three
outlets to feed the rear and two front brakes separately. This master cylinder
is slightly longer than the pedal box and so requires an extra hole in the
bulkhead with a grommet fitted. I also decided to fabricate my own design of
bracket for the pedal return springs.
A brake pipe was also run from the brake master cylinder to feed the rear
brakes. This passes down the footwell front and follows the chassis to the rear
floor of the body tub. Here a
flexible hose connects it to the rear axle union.
Handbrake
The handbrake is mounted on a bracket on the top of the transmission tunnel.
Positioning the run of
the handbrake cable caused some head scratching! The basic problem is
that it must cross the transmission tunnel without fouling the prop shaft.
There is more than one route it could take and I looked at a number of options
before making my decision.
I later decided to replace the standard MGB handbrake with an MG Midget one
which looks a little less obtrusive. However, I had to
modify the Midget handbrake in order to make it fit my existing set up.
The handbrake warning light switch can also be seen in the photo just ahead of
the ratchet mechanism.
Adjusting and bleeding
Adjustment of the rear brakes and handbrake are as described in the Haynes
Workshop Manual. Bleeding of the brakes was only carried out after painting and
re-building had taken place.